Mad About Pets!: Small Animals

Showing posts with label Small Animals. Show all posts

Guest post: Why is hedgehog breeding restricted?

Friday, November 11, 2011 Comments

The Restriction of Hedgehog Breeding

The hedgehog is an adorable little creature that has gained popularity as a pet in the last twenty years. The most common hedgehog found as a pet in the United States is the African Pygmy, though its cousin the European hedgehog has also gained interest. As cute as they are, this animal comes with some complications that have made it illegal in some states, while other states have restrictions for owning or breeding this animal. What are these complications, and how can hedgehog owners be sure their pet is healthy and well looked-after?

Picture: Mad About Pets' beloved hedgie Laika

There are a few states where owning a hedgehog is illegal. These include California, Hawaii, Georgia, Pennsylvania, New York City, and all of Douglass County in Nebraska. Arizona makes it so hard to meet requirements that you practically have to have PhDs in animal care to afford one, and Maine is working out legislature to restrict them as well. Reasons for these restrictions vary wildly by state.

The first reason hedgehogs are restricted is because they are a non-native species. If enough escapes, they could displace the native species in the area and disrupt food chains. States that have unique environments, like Hawaii, are particularly susceptible to damage from non-native species, and will often ban exotic pets. The African Pygmy hedgehog is originally from Africa, which means that it falls into this category.

Another reason is because of the diseases that they can carry. Most hedgehogs are totally healthy, but they have been linked to several diseases over the years, including salmonella, foot-and-mouth disease, rabies, yersina, pseudotuberculosis, mycobacterium marinum and even hemorrhagic fever. Some of these diseases are able to cross the lines between species and cause disease in livestock or even humans. Infants and young children are most at risk, so hedgehogs are not good pets to have around the very young. Because of these viruses, hedgehog breeders are closely regulated to be sure that the animals they sell aren't carriers. That's why it's so important to get your hedgie from a licensed breeder, who can prove that they're healthy.

Hedgehogs are adorable, but high-maintenance pets
Photo credit: World's Most Amazing Things

Hedgehogs also have a lot of very specific environmental things they need. For example, their diets can be quite complicated, they need open cages but without wire bottoms, and lots of exercise—but only on closed wheels with at least 11” diameters. Plus, hedgehogs are designed for a warm climate, and must be kept in a room that is between 70F and 76F. If they get too cold, they will try to hibernate, which can easily kill an African pygmy because they are not designed for it. Getting too hot is just as bad, however, because they can easily overheat and die of dehydration in as little as 80F.

Because of all these special needs, hedgehog breeders are subject to much scrutiny, and it is very hard to get licensed to sell them. This is why it is so important to make sure that your breeder is licensed, and has made allowances for all of these things when breeding your hedgie! Plus, you have to make sure that you have built an environment that your hedgehog can happily survive in, but can't escape. They're wonderful pets, but they can be a lot of work, so it's important to do all of your research before buying one!

About the author: Brittany Lyons aspires to be a psychology professor, but decided to take some time off from grad school to help people learn to navigate the academic lifestyle. She currently lives in Spokane, Washington, where she spends her time reading science fiction and walking her dog.

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Guest Post: 5 Things to Think About Before Buying a Bunny

Monday, March 21, 2011 Comments

You're at the pet store with your family when your child finds it - a rabbit sitting amongst it's siblings in a well lit display. Your child begs and pleads until you finally submit that they can "hold it for just a minute" before you head home.

It's soft, incredibly so, and it's floppy ears and tufted tail beg the question, how much work can it really be? Well, let’s take a look:

1. Initial Investment

While rabbits themselves don’t seem like a lot of money (most pet store bunnies sell for around $25-40), you’ll need to factor in how much you’ll pay in supplies. A basic ground cage will cost about $50 but a nice rabbit hutch with a rabbit ramp and enclosed house can run upwards of $130.

You’ll also need food bowls, a clip-on water bowl (trust me, as much as they spill you don’t want to get one that you set on the floor of the cage), salt licks, food, bedding and chew toys. That $40 rabbit can easily cost you $200 before you’re out the door! And we haven’t even mentioned a pet carrier or the vet bill. . .

2. Housing

You also need to keep their living quarters at a comfortable temperature. If it is an outdoor rabbit, make sure it has a box or shelter that it can access to stay out of weather. If you live in an extremely cold climate, you can install heaters to keep the rabbit warm. If you live in a warm climate, adding a slab of granite or a frozen water bottle for your rabbit to lay on will help it cool off.

Rabbits can be territorial and should never be housed in pairs if they have not been properly bonded (especially if they aren’t fixed). However, if a pair of rabbits is the same gender, have grown up together and you have adequate space for them, housing them together should be fine. At the first sign of fighting you should separate them.

3. Feeding

A balanced diet should consist of leafy greens, hay, and a limited amount of pellets. Alfalfa is good for younger rabbits but should be used sparingly (if at all) with older rabbits as it can lead to obesity. NEVER feed your rabbit lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, parsnips, dandelion stems or nuts of any kind. You’ll need to give it fresh water daily and make sure it’s living quarters are clean.

4. Care

Since their teeth continue to grow, treats and other wooden toys are a necessity to help the rabbit keep its teeth worn down to a reasonable length. You will need to occasionally brush the rabbit as it sheds it’s coat and trim its nails.

If the rabbit enclosure doesn’t have enough room for the rabbit to exercise, you will need to let it out to stretch it’s legs and stay fit. They can be difficult to catch, so I’d recommend using a rabbit leash or putting it in a fenced, escape-proof area. Always be on the lookout for predators!

Supervision is always needed when children are around. Rabbits usually aren’t accustomed to being held. One kick from their powerful back legs can scratch a child or injure the rabbit itself. Make sure the child holds it gently and knows where the rabbit is comfortable being petted. Rabbits are curious creatures and may sometimes ‘nip’ or bite to investigate, so watch your fingers!

5. Lifespan

For being such small creatures, rabbits live a long time (average of 9-12 years). That’s over a decade of feeding, cleaning, and caring for this rabbit.

If after all this, the little rabbit sounds like the perfect pet for your family then by all means, take Floppy home with you. He or she will reward you with love, laughs and snuggles for a decade to come! Of course be certain to check your local animal shelter, as there are plenty of lovable homeless bunnies waiting for their forever homes.

Aubrey Phelps is a writer for Simplepetcare.com, a site that offers information on all things pets. She has loved pets all her life and currently owns a chiweenie named Ollie and a cat named Ginger.

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Advice, Rabbits, Small Animals |

Laika's angry mass.

Monday, October 12, 2009 Comments

On Saturday night I took my hedgehog Laika out of her cage for her evening playtime. I noticed that she had a very strange lump on her back leg right at the quill line. It hadn't been there the day before, so I had my husband rush Laika and I to the emergency vet at about 8:00 at night.

The vet's first impression was the same as mine: it's probably an ingrown, infected quill. He decided to aspirate the lump. If it was filled with liquid, it should shrink quite easily. Unfortunately, the aspiration proved it was not filled with liquid but rather solid tissue.

The veterinarian viewed a sample of the lump under a microscope and found that the tissue appears to be made up of "round cells", which indicate a tumor. I decided to send the sample to the university for testing. A tumor like this can either be a benign mass that is easily removed or a sign of a serious cancer like lymphoma (unfortunately hedgehogs are prone to some cancers.)

I should find out the university's results later today. For now, I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that my sweet little hedgie girl will only have a minor removal surgery to endure.

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Exotic Pets, Small Animals |

What is the best bedding for hedgehogs?

Friday, August 14, 2009 Comments

If you’re confused as to what bedding is appropriate for your African Pygmy Hedgehog, you are certainly not alone. It seems that every hedgehog enthusiast has their own opinion on the subject! There are many products available, and each comes with its own set of pros and cons. What is important is finding bedding that fits the needs of both owner and hedgehog, and above all is safe for your pet.

Commonly used types of bedding are:

Pine shavings- Pine shavings are an easily attainable and relatively cheap form of bedding for your hedgehog. There is some debate, however, on the safety of using pine. Pine contains high levels of abietic acid which could, after length exposure, heighten the risk of respiratory problems and certain cancers. The risk can be minimized by purchasing kiln dried pine and using a well-ventilated cage. Uncured pine should never be used as hedgehog bedding. Besides potential health risks, pine can be messy as your hedgehog may kick it out of his cage. The ability to simply dump it out when cleaning the cage makes it a popular bedding choice for many owners.

Paper Bedding- There are several types of paper bedding available commercially: pelleted and shredded. Both are typically made of recycled consumer paper. The pelletted type (such as Yesterday’s News) is made of recycled paper compressed into hard pellets. The shredded type (such as Carefresh) is a soft, plush paper product which comes in different colors. As with any bedding, there are drawbacks to these paper products. Pelletted litters are not generally considered comfortable for your pet. Some owners have also reported finding bits of industrial debris (such as metal and plastic) due to the product being made from recycled materials. The shredded paper bedding is comfortable for hedgehogs, but there is anecdotal evidence stating some hogs may be prone to consuming it and potentially becoming internally impacted. The soft material also has a tendency to stick to a hedgehog’s sharp quills which is rather messy when removing the animal from his cage. Paper bedding is generally very absorbent, making it easy to “spot-clean” between full cage cleanings by removing the soiled bedding and replacing it with fresh.

Aspen- Aspen bedding is a relatively safe bedding choice for many hedgehogs, especially those with allergies. It can, however, be messy unless purchased in the form of chips. There are also hedgehogs which may have an allergic reaction to aspen, though it is less common than with pine.

Corn Cob- Corn cob bedding is considered moderately comfortable for hedgehogs. Precautions should be taken when using corn cob, especially in adolescent males, as it has been known to become trapped in the penile sheath which can lead to discomfort, infections and urinary issues. This type of bedding does not dry particularly quickly, so it can form mildew if not spot-cleaned regularly. Moist bedding is unsanitary for hedgehogs, and the smell is also unpleasant for owners. Corn cob bedding is easy for owners to purchase, but is comparatively more expensive than wood or paper bedding. It is an acceptable bedding if an alternative is not available.

Fleece/Vellux Liners- Liners made of fleece or vellux can be purchased online or easily purchased and cut to cage-size from a fabric store. Many hedgehog enthusiasts find fleece liners to be the most economical and simple type of bedding as it can be re-used many times and cleaned by a quick run through the washing machine. Owners should always monitor the quality of their liners, as fleece has a tendency to pill over time. If the fleece becomes pilled, the liners should be replaced for safety. Fleece liners are considered very comfortable for hedgehogs, and many enjoy burrowing under the warmth of layered liners.

These types of bedding should NEVER be used:

Cedar shavings- Cedar is a very aromatic bedding which contains high amounts of a toxin called plicatic acid. Hedgehogs have delicate respiratory systems which could easily be compromised with asthma or upper respiratory infections caused by cedar bedding. Respiratory issues in hedgehogs are very dangerous and could result in severe illness or sudden death.

Newspaper- Though many newspapers have switched to more eco-friendly inks, some papers are still printed with ink that could be toxic to hedgehogs (particularly if ingested.) Newspaper is not considered particularly absorbent and would need nearly constant replacement. Newspaper ink also transfers very easily to skin which is unsightly and unsafe for hogs.

Cat litter- Clay cat litter is far too dusty to be used as bedding for hedgehogs. It can be used sparingly in litter trays, but should never be used as a full-cage bedding. In either case, clumping cat litter should not be used as it can compact and clump internally if eaten. Small-grained cat litter can also become embedded in the reproductive organs of both male and female hedgehogs.

Pillowcases and Towels- Loose strings from pillowcases or towels can easily become wrapped around tiny hedgehog limbs. Hogs cannot generally remove themselves when trapped in such a manner and may break a limb; tightly wrapped strings can also cause amputation. Towels are typically made up of millions of tiny loops for absorbency. This makes them great for human use, but very dangerous for hedgehogs. Their feet and nails can easily become entangled in the loops. Unfortunately, many hogs have lost a toenail or toes for this reason.

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Advice, Exotic Pets, Small Animals |

G-Force and Kids: Guinea Pigs as Pets

Friday, July 31, 2009 Comments

“Mom, can we PLEASE get a guinea pig?” If your child has seen the new animated film G-Force (or even caught a glimpse of the trailer), this is a question you have likely encountered. It seems that whenever a new movie or television show comes out starring an animal, that animal becomes the new “must have” pet. It’s natural for children to want a “real life” version of the fuzzy, cute, and funny stars of their favorite movies, but is it really a good idea?

When the new version of 101 Dalmations came out a few years back, the rush to purchase dalmation puppies was at an all-time high. Parents stampeded to scoop up a puppy for their children, only to realize that their new puppy didn’t constantly entertain them with adorable antics and wasn’t even a very child-friendly breed. Unfortunately, many dalmations ended up in animal shelters for reasons that could have been prevented with a little research.

Before you give in to your child’s new dream of guinea pig ownership, it’s important to be realistic. We all know that guinea pigs (commonly called cavies) don’t spout jokes or carry heavy artillery like the stars of G-Force, but what might not be widely known is that guinea pigs are naturally skittish and wary of humans. Despite your child’s insistence that “the girl down the street owns a guinea pig and it’s the nicest pet ever”, it is a rare guinea pig that immediately warms up to its human owner. It takes time and a lot of patience to form a bond between owner and cavy; is your child ready for that time commitment?

Beyond the time required to form a loving bond, there is also the time requirement of basic care. Many kids will swear up and down that they will be the sole caretaker of their new pet, but parents should always understand that they will likely be the ones attending to the pet in the long-run. If your child loses interest, are you willing to care for a guinea pig for the eight years it could potentially live? Sadly, many cavies end up in shelters or passed from home to home for this reason.

Expense is another factor that potential owners should not take lightly. So you see a guinea pig at your local pet shop for $25; that doesn’t seem so bad, right? Wrong. A good cage can run you around $100. There is the recurring expense of food, bedding and vitamins. If you purchase a piggy of the long-haired variety, your pet may require regular trips to the groomer. The most forgotten expense, however, is also the largest: vet bills. Upper respiratory infection, vitamin deficiency, ear infection and other health issues are serious threats to cavies and can result in death if not treated swiftly.

If you’ve decided that a guinea pig may not be a great option for your family, you’ll still likely have to deal with the stomping and crying when you tell your child “no.” Believe it or not, it IS possible to turn this into a positive experience for both you and your child. Many animal shelters will allow kids to volunteer if they are accompanied by a guardian. Not only will this give your child the chance to interact with the animals they so desperately desire without actually bringing them home, it will also teach an important lesson about pet ownership. The sight of once-loved, now homeless animals is enough to convince even the most headstrong child of the consequences of rushing into pet ownership.