Mad About Pets!

Breakaway collars help prevent collar-related accidents and injuries.

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Invisible dog fences are versatile and reliable methods of containment that can be used in just about any yard. Some dogs, however, benefit more from invisible fences than others. If you answer “yes” to any of these questions, an invisible dog fence might be worth looking into.

Lots of people clicker train their dogs, but few people (even savvy cat owners) realize that clicker training a cat is not only possibly, but quite easy! The general opinion among the human population is that cats cannot be trained; they do things their own way, and that’s just the way it is. The truth is, cats can definitely be trained…it’s just a matter of finding what motivates them. Dogs are motivated by food but also by their need to be a member of the pack. In their minds, they are in constant danger of being designated the pariah of the pack so they try their hardest to please the other pack members (your family.) Cats, on the other hand, do not have a pack mentality. When it comes to cats, there is one surefire motivator: FOOD.

Photo credit: for-cats-only.com

The person in charge of the majority of cat care in your household should have a pretty good idea what food motivates your kitty most. Some cats might enjoy some little tidbits of meat or even a small amount of yogurt. Another easy training tool for cats are commercially available cat treats that come in 7 flavors. These are easy to keep in your pocket during a training session. Remember though: calories add up fast for a kitty, so always keep track of how many treats you give your cat during training, which is another important part of cat care!

So why exactly would you want to clicker train your cat? Some people enjoy feline clicker training for the extra bonding time they get with their cats, and the mental challenge and stimulation it provides indoor cats. Cats can be taught useful behaviors like sit, stay, and even how to walk properly on a leash. Other people use clicker training to teach their cats “parlor tricks” like shake, play dead, or to walk on the hind legs. It’s best to start simple and play to the cat’s specific strengths. "Sit" is a simple and useful first behavior to start out with, and will give your cat a good idea of how the behavior/reward correlation works. For more advanced behaviors, it’s always easier to build on a behavior your cat already exhibits. If your cat likes to stand up on his hindquarters, teach him to do it on command. If your cat likes to roll onto her back, teach her to roll over on cue. Building on natural behaviors is a quick and easy way to add to your kitty’s training arsenal.

Clicker training principles for cats are essentially the same as they are for dogs. When a behavior is properly performed, the behavior must immediately be followed with a click of the clicker and a treat. It’s essential that the cat understands the correlation between the behavior and the food reward; if you’re too slow to the punch, your cat may not make the mental connection. It’s also crucial that the verbal and non-verbal cues you give your cat are consistent. If you use a verbal signal like “Sit!”, always use the same tone of voice, the same volume, and the same word every single time. For non-verbal cues like a hand signal, the same idea should be applied. The key to successful training is consistency and repetition. Though it may seem tedious at first, you will be so proud of your kitty cat when they master their first learned behavior!

Watch this video to learn more about the basics of clicker training:

Recently a reader wrote me asking for tips on how to transition her cat to a canned food only diet. I figured this information might be helpful to other readers as well, so here was my response:

Some kitties take to switching to canned very easily, while others are definitely die-hard kibble munchers! For starters, you should get the kibble completely out of the house; if the cat can even smell it in the cupboard, they will know it is there and hold out for it.

One of Mad About Pets' cats' favorites!

For my cats, I discovered that each of them was picky about flavor and texture. One of the cats would only eat pate, while another preferred shreds. I went to the pet store and bought a huge variety of different flavors and formulas to see which ones would be the most popular. Granted I ended up with a lot of wasted cat food, but at least I figured out which flavors worked out best! My cats ended up deciding on Holistic Select Chicken & Lamb, Holistic Select Duck & Chicken, Merrick Before Grain Quail, NutriSource Chicken & Rice , Nutro Max Cat Turkey & Giblets and Nutro Max Cat Chicken & Liver. Some of those are better than others, like the Merrick food doesn't have any grain or vegetables. I try to give them a mix, though, so they don't get bored of one flavor. The less grain or vegetables the better when it comes to moist food. In the "wild", cats wouldn't eat grains or vegetables beyond what is contained in the entrails of their prey. Grain and vegetables look nice in the ingredients list, but they're just filler.

One thing I look for when buying canned foods is I don't want anything that had seafood as an ingredient. You have to check the labels because many of the foods will have seafood flavoring hidden in the ingredients to make it tastier to kitties. However, many cats develop allergies and sensitivities to seafood, or will refuse to eat anything else if they are offered seafood. Since my kitty Gabe has IBD, it was especially important for him to stay away from seafood. Most "normal" cats can have seafood a few times a week, but I prefer to just keep it out of my house altogether and try to focus on foods that would be more typical of a cat's prey like foul.

The tasty probiotic FortiFlora

For kitties that are stubborn about moist food, there are a few tips you can try to make the food more tempting to them. You can try mixing some warm water into the food; this brings the scent out and sort of creates a "gravy" they can lap up. You can try sprinkling some Parmesan cheese on top of the food, or even crushing up some of the cat's old kibble and sprinkling it on top. If your cat likes tuna, you can try pouring some tuna water on top. Otherwise some kitties really like the flavor of the probiotic FortiFlora, and will eat just about anything you sprinkle it on (my Birman is nuts for this stuff.) Adding the probiotic would not be a bad idea anyway; it can help the tummy handle switching over to a new type of food and avoid diarrhea.

The main thing you have to watch out for with kitties when switching to a new food is Fatty Liver Disease (Hepatic Lipadosis). If a cat refuses to eat, his liver is forced to use fat from the body for energy (which it is not very good at converting). The liver can't handle this, and essentially becomes loaded with fat. This is almost always fatal in cats without proper treatment. Cats can go about 2-3 days without eating, but after that the risk of Fatty Liver is great. As long as your kitty is eating a little, though, the body won't have to resort to using those fat stores exclusively. The best thing you can do is break the feedings up into 2-3 meals per day (preferably 3). If you give the cat a whole can of food at once, they're probably not going to be able to eat it all at once. In the "wild", a cat would eat several times a day so doing multiple feedings will mimic that. Hunger can be a great asset in convincing your kitty to switch to moist food, so if the cat doesn't eat for a day it's going to be ok. They may try a hunger strike with you and hold out for kibble, but after a day they'll be hungry enough to eat the moist whether they want it or not! Whatever you do, just be certain your cat is getting at least a little food in her system during this transitional period and always has access to plenty of fresh water.

If you're used to offering your cat a free freeding kibble buffet, you may be unsure how much moist food your cat needs on a canned only diet. The rule of thumb is this: 5-6 oz per each 7 pounds your cat weighs. Most canned food comes in 5.5 oz cans, so a 7 pound cat will eat one can per day. Weight and activity level are both factors in determining how much your cat should eat. If she's an overweight couch potato, stick with one can per day. If she's a lean and active kitty, you'll need to feed a little more. You'll want to feed at each feeding no more than your cat can eat in 30 minutes; a little trial and error and you'll figure out your kitty's necessary feeding amounts.

Gabe, the hero of our story

Last month we noticed our male Siamese cat Gabe acting a bit funny. He was acting strangely standoffish, and looked a bit “off”. In the past Gabe had suffered from a blocked urethra due to struvite crystals, but palpation of his abdomen did not show evidence of a full bladder or seem to cause Gabe any discomfort (other than the annoyance of me pawing at his tummy!)

A few days after we noticed Gabe’s changing behavior, Gabe didn’t eat his canned food at dinnertime. Gabe ALWAYS eats his canned food; in fact, he begs for it and scarfs it down like he’s starving. I thought perhaps he was just being fickle and no longer liked that particular flavor of food. My husband and I passed it off, and didn’t think much more of it until that evening when there was a trail of blood outside of the litter box.

I had already gone to bed when my husband noticed the blood. It was just a few mucousy drops, but it was still very alarming. My husband woke me up and told me about the blood, and I immediately noticed Gabe wasn’t laying at the foot of the bed in his usual location.

“Where’s Gabe?”, I asked in a panic.

I searched the bedroom for Gabe, and my husband searched the basement. We called out his name to no avail. A few moments later I heard my husband’s voice yelling, “Please come down here!” In the basement I found my husband standing over poor Gabe, who was crouched under the stairwell looking positively awful. His coat looked lackluster and dull, his eyes were wide and frightened, and he was clearly attempting to hide. I reached down to pet Gabe, and he let out a pitiful meow. Something was clearly very wrong.

We made the immediate decision to take Gabe to the emergency vet clinic on the other side of Madison. The blood outside the litter box coupled with Gabe’s hiding in the basement had us fearing the worst. As my husband drove us to the clinic, I began to Google Gabe’s symptoms on my iPhone. The more I read, the more I became convinced Gabe was suffering from a flare-up of IBD (Inflammatory Bowel Disease.)

When we got to the vet clinic, a nice nurse took us into an exam room and weighed Gabe. He was down to 8 pounds, and was very dehydrated. Gabe’s temperature was also unusually low. The vet did an examination, checking for any evidence of urinary discomfort (due to Gabe’s history of struvite crystals). Though Gabe was clearly not well, the physical exam did not show anything unusual other than some slight hardening of the intestines. The vet’s diagnosis? Gabe was suffering a flare-up of IBD.

The vet gave us a few options of how we could treat the issue at hand, and we decided to treat the immediate flare-up with some painkillers, subcutaneous fluids, a bland diet, and some probiotics. The vet informed us that IBD is something Gabe will always live with, and there are numerous ways to diagnose the root cause. A full blood panel could be done, an intestinal biopsy could be taken, etc. My husband and I both decided that at 12+ years of age, we have no desire to put Gabe through a barrage of invasive tests just to prove what we already know. I decided to go back to the drawing board, and do some research.

After hours of researching IBD, I came to realize that Gabe’s issues were probably caused by his diet. I had been feeding the cats canned food for dinner every evening, but it was always flavored with some sort of fish. As it seems, many cats cannot tolerate fish and in fact are allergic to it. I had no idea! My cats were also on a primarily dry food diet. Though the food I was buying was high-quality, I learned that dry food diets are in no way ideal for cats. In fact, most cats on dry food diets go through their lives partially dehydrated. Dry food diets can be linked to diabetes, obesity, renal failure, and IBD. I decided to go for the gusto and switch the cats over to a canned diet only.

The trio of moist food munchers

I scoured the canned food aisle at my local Mounds Pet Food Warehouse to find canned foods without fish, without grains, and with as little vegetable content as possible. I bought a smorgasbord of different varieties to find out which would most tempt the cats. I knew the cats were not going to be happy about having their kibble buffet taken away, but after all I’d read I knew it was what I had to do.

Let me tell you…the transformation has been amazing. After cutting out the kibble and switching to canned, the health of the cats has visibly improved. Gabe’s IBD symptoms disappeared, and his chronic yeast infection in his ears has subsided. Our Birman’s tear staining stopped, and her intermittent diarrhea has not returned. All three cats are more active than they’ve been in years. I could hardly believe the difference the diet change made! I’m now experimenting with a raw diet for the cats, so we’ll see how that goes. I’ll keep you updated on the diet changes!

The moral of the story? Ditch the kibble! Gabe says so!

Owning a horse can be an incredibly rewarding and fun experience, but it comes with responsibility. A lot of care needs to be taken when choosing a horse, especially when it is the first time one is being bought. It is easy to get excited and carried away by color, size or temperament of a horse and regret their decisions later.

Take time, look around at all the possibilities. Spend time with him/her and get to know the personality of the horse. Once you break in and start a relationship, the whole impression of a horse change, and often it is clear which one is the right choice.

Photo credit: thehorsepedia.com

Things to consider when buying a horse:

• It is generally better for a first time owner to start with an older horse, as a young horse will require a lot more training and can be more difficult to handle

• Heaver riders need larger, sturdier horses, and short riders might consider ponies or other small breeds

• Look for a clean and healthy coat, signs of sores and swelling and clear, clean eyes

• A beginner would do well to take the honest opinion of a trainer, concerning the riders skill level and horse compatibility

• A horse that stands still for inspection is a good sign and a good candidate for a beginner

• Ask for the whole history of the horse and if anything sounds doubtful, consult with a veterinarian

• While spending time with the horse, watch for signs of lameness or bad behaviour

• When the right horse has been found, make another appointment and take someone more experienced, so it can be made sure nothing is over looked

• Make sure the horse has had all necessary vaccinations, continue to give them as needed

Photo credit: equinejustice.org

Relationship and Trust

Spending time with the horse is the best way to cultivate trust and develop a bond. It is best to not rush this important phase of building a relationship, as it is fundamental to the future happiness and fun that can be received from the horse as well as given.

To start with, provide consistency and routine with food, water, shelter and grooming. Grooming is a great time to bond, as it can feel as good for the horse as it is pleasurable for the owner. When grooming, be sure to start with techniques that the horse already knows and add, or change, things slowly as the relationship and confidence increases.

The most important thing around a horse is calmness and rhythm. Whether walking, talking, brushing, saddling the horse or swinging a rope, it should always be done with a calm and steady rhythm. Horses will perceive any excitement, or surprises, as a threat.

Maintaining a Clean Environment in the Stable

Horses need space and light in their stables, as they are not happy spending too much time in the dark. It is vital that the stable is kept clean, in order to prevent mildew and bacteria and not let it become a heaven for parasites. All of which could lead to serious illness and infection for the horse.

A stable that is about 400 square feet per horse is a good size. Important requirements for a stable to ensure the horse stays healthy are:

• A good drainage system so the faeces and urine can easily be removed

• Well ventilated; fresh air will help reduce dust mites and mildew

• Clean bedding, there is now a variety of bedding form which to choose

If a horse is not comfortable and happy in its stable, then it will never settle down and get the rest it needs. This means a grumpy horse that will not heed to any training, and a lot of frustration for the owner. If horse and owner are unhappy, it is a recipe for disappointment and a long struggle, so it is essential that the horse’s basic comforts and needs are met.

Photo credit: equinesaltlicks.com

Feeding 

Horses are essentially grazing animals, so the bulk of their food should be hay and forage. As long as it is good quality, it is enough to maintain their nutritional needs, and supplements may only need to be given occasionally. A horse eats about two to four per cent of its body weight every day. This can increase in winter.

It is also vital that the horse has access to clean water at a comfortable temperature at all times. A healthy mature horse can drink up to 12 gallons a day. Adequate water intake is necessary for their digestive system.

A horse also needs salt in its diet; either by having a salt block to lick on, or fed loose white salt. This is just as important in hot climates as it is during winter.

Hayley works at Anything Equine, In her spare time she writes helpful advice and tips for beginner riders on a range of topics including equestrian health conditions and pasture management. 

Animal Planet's Victoria Stilwell Photo Credit: petside.com

Of the 86 million felines living as pets in the U.S., an astonishing one-third of pet owners will skip a trip to the veterinarian to avoid the hassle* – yet missing a veterinarian visit could actually cause more harm to the pet. Cats rarely exhibit signs of sickness or disease even when a problem exists; therefore, routine veterinarian visits are essential to protecting pets from life-threatening illnesses.

“There is no doubt that cats can be finicky when it comes to travel; however, there are easy tips and tricks pet owners can use to ensure a smooth road ahead,” said Stilwell. “Pet owners don’t have to be a professional in order to train their cats to get into the carrier. All it takes is some practice and simple changes in behavior and cat-fights will soon be a thing of the past!”

It’s time for an “inFURvention!”

Beginning Wednesday, July 18 through Friday August, 17, pet owners are invited to upload their “real” cat videos to http://www.infurvention.com/, with the tag “#inFURvention” to be considered in need of an “inFURvention” from Stilwell. One pet owner and “inFURvention” video will be chosen to win a year’s worth of free preventive veterinary care from Banfield and a special at-home visit with Victoria Stilwell who will give professional insight into the best tips and tricks to getting your cat out of the house and into the veterinarian’s office.


Tips and tricks to eliminating the cat-fight!



About Banfield® Pet Hospital

Founded in Portland, Ore., in 1955, Banfield is the largest general veterinary practice in the world. In 2007, Banfield joined the Mars, Inc. family of businesses, and today we are more than 800 hospitals strong in neighborhoods across the United States. More than 2,600 veterinarians at Banfield are committed to giving pets the highest quality of veterinary care. Banfield hospitals offer a full range of comprehensive medical services, computerized medical records, preventive care plans for pets and extended operating hours. Banfield Pet Hospital helps extend the lives of millions of pets each year through Optimum Wellness Plans®. For journalists seeking more information, please visit our press room at http://www.banfield.com/ or contact our Media Hotline at 888-355-0595.

This kitty is happy and confident. Photo credit: petdental.com

Cats tell us a lot about how they’re feeling by their tail. This “tail language”, once deciphered, is a vital way your cat can communicate with you. For example, a tail raised high is a sign that a cat is happy and confident. A tail hanging low (and usually accompanying wide eyes and a crouching body posture) is a sign that a cat is nervous, scared, or in distress.

A good old-fashioned kitty standoff Photo credit: crazyauntpurl.com

See also: Why does my cat roll over, then bite me when I pet his/her belly?

When a cat rolls onto its back, it is easy to mistake this for “Please pet my belly!” Unlike dogs, most cats do not like their tummy pet. As much as it would seem that way, a cat rolling on its back is not an open invitation for a belly rub!

Tempting though it may be, steer clear of the kitty tummy!

The best course of action when it comes to a cat showing his or her belly is to admire the cute softness, but keep hands clear. Unless you know the cat well and know that this particular animal truly enjoys belly rubs, it’s always safer not to risk it. There are those rare cats that truly enjoy having their tummies rubbed, kissed and nuzzled, but they are certainly not the norm. And even if they let their owner do it, they may not let anyone else. Err on the side of caution, and stick with chin scritches and head pets when meeting a new cat. Your hands and arms will thank you for it!

Pet safety during summertime is always important, but the intense heat this year can make practicing hot weather safety a matter of life or death. Pets are like family members and you want your pet to be happy and comfortable. If you have an indoor or outdoor cat or other pet, it's important to consider how you can keep your furry friend safe on days when the temperatures rise above your pet’s comfort level. These tips can help you be proactive about your pet's safety, while allowing your cat to stay comfortable throughout the summer.

Hot Weather Safety for Outside Pets

• Providing a Cool Place to Rest. A cool, shady place to lie down is important for outside pets. A dog might appreciate having a kiddie pool to lie in, but a cat probably won't use one. Cats and dogs alike will seek out cool areas in a shady garden where the soil is naturally cooler. Cement areas in the shade also provide a nice area to keep cool.



Outdoor waters like this one give your dog access to fresh water at all times

 • Sufficient Water. Water is important to keeping your pet cool on a hot summer day. Change the water frequently to keep it fresh and as cool as possible. Toss ice cubes into the water for an extra cool treat.

• A Way into the House. A pet door provides your dog or cat with a way to get inside where it's cool. This is especially helpful if you’ll be away from home while your pet is outside.

Safety Tips for Indoors

• Keep it Cool with Air Conditioning. Set the air conditioning at a comfortable temperature so your pet can keep cool while you're at work. To ensure your air conditioner provides as much cool air as possible, change the filter at least once a month.

• Fresh Water Daily. Sufficient water supply indoors is just as important as it is outdoors, even if the temperature is cooler. It's better to err on the side of caution and leave out a bowl of water that's too big than to return home and find your pet's water bowl completely empty.

• Close Pet Doors While Away. It's wise to close or lock the door to prevent your furry friend from going outside on extremely hot days. Most dogs can make it for several hours before they have to go to the bathroom. If you have a puppy or older pet, hire a pet sitter to let them out once a day. Some cats enjoy going outside, but it's not necessary since a cat can use an indoor litter box.

Prevent Heat-Related Conditions

Most pet owners have good intentions and don't set out to put their pet at risk of heat exhaustion. As much as your pet might enjoy car rides, it's best not to bring your dog or cat in the car with you unless you can bring him or her inside once you arrive at your destination. The temperature of a closed car, or even one with the windows cracked open, can get hot fast and put your pet in potential danger.

If your cat shows signs of heatstroke, such as heavy panting, drooling, staggering or disorientation, wrap his or her body in cold, wet towels, mist with cool water and place an ice pack nearby. Quickly take your pet to the veterinarian to get life-saving, professional care. Fast action is imperative to safeguard your pet's health.

The best approach to heat-related safety issues is one that's proactive. Know how to keep your pet cool and follow through with it each day.

Cameron Tyler loves his pets and replaces his air filters every month to make sure his pets stay nice and cool in the summertime.

As you are undoubtedly aware, responsible pet ownership involves not only caring for your pets, but also taking care of yourself. In 2011, Americans spent more than $13 billion on veterinary care and almost the same amount in pet supplies and over-the-counter medications. Keeping your pet healthy ensures she or he is happy, which can help prevent situations that can damage your pet's health and even yours. Unfortunately, there are medical issues that can occur due to having a pet in the home, from allergies to injuries resulting from playing too roughly. Investing in health insurance is a great way to protect yourself from possible risks associated with pet ownership.

Proven to be beneficial to human health in many ways, pet ownership can sometimes have negative effects as well. Minor injuries, such as a scratch from a startled cat, or more serious wounds like dog bites can result from interactions with your pets and other animals in your neighborhood. Obtaining health insurance for your whole household protects you against unexpected financial consequences if your pet accidentally injures you. Injuries like a scratch or ankle that gets sprained during a run around the neighborhood are often treatable at home, but a bite from a dog or other pet may require a trip to the emergency room.

Photo credit: mbfdogsupplies.com

It's always wise to keep in mind that you own an animal, no matter how domesticated she or he may be. When you first bring a pet home, she may be afraid of her new surroundings and bite as a defense mechanism. The same can happen when your pet meets another animal in your home or during a walk. Pet ownership isn't usually dangerous, but taking precautions is smart. As summer temperatures spike, the chance of dehydration, a bad sunburn or heatstroke after an afternoon at the dog park is possible. Have fun with your pet but always keep your health needs in mind. Regardless of your financial situation, you can find an individual or family health insurance policy with the right balance of low premiums and out-of-pocket costs to take care of your needs.

Avoiding liability for pet-related injuries

Photo credit: safaar.com

Although your health insurance will cover you if your pet injures you, it will not cover any claims for people who are not listed on your household's policy. For protection against liability claims if your pet injures someone else, you'll need to include your pet on your homeowner's insurance policy. Therefore, discuss your pet with your insurance agent early in establishing your policy to ensure you get adequate coverage. Be sure as well to amend your policy when a new pet joins your family.

Having the right health insurance can help ensure proper medical care so your whole household remains healthy and happy. Chances are you won't have any issues with your pet, aside from being plagued by stray hair on your clothes and furniture, but it's always a good idea to be prepared for misadventure just in case. Choose an insurance plan that fits into your household budget and enables you to look out for the well-being of your whole household – including your pets.

Cameron Tyler is an animal lover who takes great pride in his pets and protects himself with great health insurance.

Fleas are almost invisible due to their tiny size, but they can easily ride into your home on a sock or pants leg. Fleas cause obvious discomfort to your dog or cat and occasionally attempt to make a meal out of you and your family! Ctenocephalides felis, or the common car flea has a complex lifecycle that you need to understand to successfully eliminate. Fleas hatch into the first of several worm-like stages. Immediately, these larvae squirm down into the carpet or grass to avoid light. They live for weeks on the ground, seeking small amounts of organic material to eat. The best meal for them is "flea dirt," the remains of an adult flea's blood meals. Once these larvae attain a certain degree of health, they go into a pupae state and can lay in dormant wait for up to two years! Once they sense the vibrations of a large animal nearby, they hatch and immediately seek a host. Cats are their preferred home, but they are quite happy to choose a dog as well. Adult fleas spend all their time on the host animal eating and laying eggs, which fall from the animal to restart the cycle.

This peculiar lifecycle explains why in order to successfully eliminate fleas from your household you need to focus on the animal's body (where the adult fleas are), and areas where the pet spends a majority of its time (where the eggs and larvae live). Adult fleas are best attacked with IGRs or insect growth regulators. IGRs are a group of pesticides that quite effectively destroy the reproductive system of insects but are essentially harmless to mammals. These are the products that are squeezed from a small tube onto the dog or cat's neck or spine. Frontline and Advantage fit this description, for example. Follow the instructions carefully, as the flea's lifecycle is longer than the effective period of these products. Also, be aware that these products are strong chemicals and you should consult a vet before using even the over-the-counter versions. Homemade remedies such as sticky pads and diatomaceous earth (DE) will kill some fleas, but generally cannot be used to eliminate the entire flea population.

But removing the adult fleas does not solve the overall problem. Outdoor areas your pet frequents must be treated with a pesticide as well, usually a hose end sprayer full of a pyrethrin-based poison. The pet's bedding should be washed frequently in hot water and that and other areas your pet spends time in must be vacuumed. Then vacuum again often, as the vacuuming will cause vibrations that encourage the flea pupae to hatch and move around seeking a host. Young adult fleas will work their way out of a vacuum cleaner bag eventually, so empty your vacuum far away from the house or use a product like Flea Vac pellets to kill these insects inside the vacuum cleaner. These steps must be repeated periodically as well, to ensure you are capturing each successive generation of fleas.

Flea infestations can be maddening. But with a good plan and by staying mindful of the flea's lifecycle, any flea population can be brought under control and removed from your house.

About the Author

August Bering V, "Augie" to his friends, is President of Bering's Hardware in Houston, TX. Bering's is well known for a broad range of carefully selected home goods such as outdoor living products to pet products, and red carpet service that has delighted customers for generations since 1940. From your bridal registry, decorating your first home, to your first baby registry, Bering's has special gifts for special occasions and the right tools for the right job. Augie enjoys spending time with his family and friends, grilling and cooking, playing hard outside, travelling, design, art, live music, and spending as much time as he can with his family.

Having your cat urinate outside the litter box is one of the most challenging behavioral issues a cat owner can face. Not only can it be expensive to clean and/or replace your furniture or carpet, it can create a big rift between you and your cat.

There are many reasons your cat might stop using the litter box, some which you may not have even thought of. Though this list is by no means all-inclusive, here are five of the common reasons a cat will pee outside the box.  

Fine grained cat litter is the most accepted litter Photo Credit: pets.webmd.com

Type of Cat Litter

The type of cat litter you use may not seem like a big deal, but it is to your cat! One common mistake cat owners make is buying heavily scented cat litter. Most commercial litters are scented to cover up odors; this may be good for the owner, but it’s not good for the cat. Cats have a much keener sense of smell than humans, and perfumed cat litter can be absolutely overwhelming to their sensitive noses. That alone can be enough to make a cat avoid the litter box! Consider purchasing unscented cat litter for your cat’s box.

The texture of the cat litter can also be very important to your cat. Out in “the wild”, cats bury their waste in sand or another finely grained substrate. Some commercial cat litters are made of larger, hard chunks of clay that can be painful to the feet of sensitive cats. Many cats simply will not like the texture. In general, cats prefer a finely milled clay litter.  


Many times when we choose the cat’s litter box, we choose what is convenient for our home. We fail to take into account the cat’s psychological and physiological requirements. If you notice urine or feces directly outside the litter box, do not automatically assume your cat is not using the box. They may just be using the *wrong* box for them! It is not uncommon for cats to “do their business” at the very back or very front of their litter box, thereby hanging their back end over the side of the box and missing it entirely. Sometimes this can happen due to their litter box being too small, but sometimes it can just be due to the way your cat likes to “go”.

A Rubbermaid tote litter box Photo Credit: paws-and-effect.com

As a general rule, the bigger the litter box the better. Many owners will make their own cat box out of a Rubbermaid tote, and cut an entrance for the cat in the front. This is a good-sized container, and also can help to eliminate the problem of the cat overshooting the box. For cats that tend to overshoot, a high-walled box is best (or even a covered litter box if the cat will tolerate it.) Another general rule of thumb is that you should have as many litter boxes as you have cats, plus one. In other words, if you have two cats you should have three boxes. If you have one cat, you should have 2 boxes. And so on and so forth.

Speaking of covered litter boxes, these can also be a common reason for a cat to urinate inappropriately. In a multi-cat household, a covered litter box can make a cat feel trapped while they potty and make them feel susceptible to ambush. Rather than put themselves in perceived danger, they may just stop using the litter box altogether and find a more open place to urinate. A covered litter box can also be problematic in a single-cat household. Though we humans like the idea of keeping the cat’s waste out of sight, we must again take into account the cat’s keen sense of smell. A covered box tends to trap in odors, particularly the ammonia from urine. This can easily become overwhelming for a cat and cause them to avoid the litter box entirely. If a covered box is absolutely necessary, it should be cleaned on a daily basis and sanitized once weekly to keep odors at bay.  

Location of Litter Box

You like privacy, and so does your cat! Your cat’s litter box should always be placed in a quiet, low-traffic area of the house. Many people choose the basement, laundry room or bathroom. You should never place the cat’s litter box in a busy area of the house like a child’s playroom, and the cat should never have to cross a very busy area to get to their litter box. The box should be placed in an area where the cat can keep a lookout while he does his business. Though they’ve been domesticated for a very long time, cats still have strong survival instincts and need to be on the lookout for “predators” while they are in a place as vulnerable as their litter box. As such, the box shouldn’t be tucked away behind a curtain or in a hideaway if possible.

Homes with multiple litter boxes should also strategically place them throughout the home, on different levels and in different rooms. It may seem easiest to place several litter boxes next to each other, but doesn’t that just defeat the purpose of having multiple boxes? Many cats prefer to urinate in one box, and defecate in another. You may find that your cat likes to urinate in the litter box upstairs, while she prefers to defecate in the box in the basement. Cats like options!




Thanks for keeping my potty clean! Photo credit: consciouscat.net

 

You may have heard this one before: “If your dog has demodectic mange, just get some motor oil and rub it on the infected parts. It’ll get better, trust me!”

This remedy has all the features of an old wives’ tale. A rumor heard from a bar somewhere? Check. Advice supposedly passed down from ‘seasoned veterans’? Check. Implausible solution? Double check.

Alas, this particular remedy sounds too good to be true, and it is. It’s pretty much a given that whenever an industrial-grade fluid touches naked skin, the results will always be unpleasant. This includes dumping the stuff on a dog with a skin problem.

Photo credit: amazonpilgrim.com

But what would happen if you pour motor oil all over your dog? For starters, there’s always the severe rashes that will result due to skin irritation. It will also cause extensive skin damage, because our dog’s skin will actually absorb all the toxic chemicals from the motor oil.

That’s all just on the surface too, but it gets much worse than that. When a dog absorbs the oil through the skin, it penetrates the body and affects the internal system as well. Obviously, this causes a whole new host of problems, such as drastic changes in the blood pressure, as well as severe kidney and liver damage.

All this makes for a list of things horrible enough to get nightmares from, but unfortunately there’s one more gruesome aspect left to cover. Remember how dogs just love to lick and bite themselves all over, especially if they have demodectic mange? Well, what happens if they follow their instincts and proceed to lick their own skin… after being coated with motor oil?

Yes, they’ll swallow it, and the oil will induce vomiting, which in turn will introduce some of the oil into the lungs as well. This subsequently gives them pneumonia.

That should be enough of a reason why you should never, ever use motor oil to treat demodectic mange.

Now that we’re clear about what not to do, however, let’s indulge in our curiosity a little more. Why the heck did people use motor oil in the first place, anyway?

Motor Oil probably did cure demodectic mange once, buuuuuut…

"Please leave the motor oil to your engine, and the mange treatment to your veterinarian!"

Yes, there’s a good chance that it was used as a treatment option successfully. Obviously, even this statement could be false – I’m really just speculating here.

I’ve found that there’s actually a coherent reason why it was viable then, but not now. But rather than jump into conclusions from the get-go, let’s walk through my little pet theory first. It’s essentially made up of three key points, the first being:

Motor oil produced 50 years ago had a different chemical makeup than the ones available today.

It’s no secret that the oil produced nowadays are very different from the ones made 50 years ago. There have been many changes to its chemical properties since then, but one of the more significant ones concern the level of sulfur present; it’s much, much lower than it once was.

Most people used burnt motor oil for mange treatment – fuel that was already spent in some form.

One interesting trend that I’ve been coming across is the fact that many of those who vouch for the oil’s viability used burnt versions of motor oil. They swore up and down that it worked, even though many other people horrifically disagreed. Keep in mind that this was what they did, not what they heard somewhere.

It’s also worth noting that burnt motor oil still contains a fraction of sulfur in it. But what’s all this talk of sulfur about, anyway? Well, it actually turns out that…

Sulfur is actually a pretty good deterrent to parasites.

The chemical is commonly used to treat parasites on both pets and humans, and there are many products in the market that include sulfur as a main ingredient. In fact, some demodectic mange remedies also include the use of sulfur in their procedures.

So it’s not much of a stretch after all for motor oil to be perceived as a good remedy for demodectic mange. In the past, the higher sulfur levels may have helped initially in clearing up the skin problem, which led to the unlikely remedy that we’ve been hearing about for ages since. The current users of burnt motor oil may also be seeing some form of success because the sulfur content was actually having a positive effect on the dog.

However, I hope you haven’t forgotten that motor oil is definitely not acceptable as treatment for
your dog’s demodectic mange! Some may indeed have gotten lucky and had their dogs’ mange cured by it, but it’s still a very dangerous method to use and will most definitely not work out for most other dogs.

Besides, there are other, better options out there. Why would you choose to dunk your dog in a smelly, greasy liquid instead?

Need more information on safer and easier home remedies for demodectic mange? Just visit dogskintreatments.com to find out more.